Why plants are more than just decor
Houseplants are living things with surprisingly specific needs. They attach to their spot: to the corner of the room where the light falls just right, to the rhythm of warmth and cool, to the humidity of that one bathroom where the shower runs daily. A move disrupts all of that at once. The plant endures shocks in the moving van, goes hours to days without direct light, and then lands in an environment different in every respect from its old home. For robust species like a succulent or sansevieria that's no disaster. For sensitive ones like an orchid, a fern or a large fig tree, a botched move can cause leaf drop, fungus or in the worst case the plant's death. The good news: with the right prep, nearly all houseplants survive a move just fine. The bad news: a moving company can't and won't always take responsibility for plants. Even a professional mover usually offers no guarantee on plants, because they're sensitive to factors unrelated to transport quality. So plan that you handle plant care yourself, and set yourself up for it.
Preparation: in the weeks before the move
A good plant move starts weeks in advance. Where possible prune away dry or dead leaves, less foliage means less chance of damage and less water use during the transition. Inspect every plant for diseases and pests: a move is not the time to bring mealybug or thrips to a new home where they can infect all the other plants. Treat with biological pesticide or a rinse in the shower if needed, well before the move. Stop fertilising two to three weeks before moving day, a plant in active growth is more sensitive to shocks. Three to five days before the move, give each plant a last good watering so the roots are well hydrated but the soil isn't soaking wet. Are your tropicals like monstera or philodendron in a plastic inner pot? Temporarily swap any ceramic decorative pot for that plastic version, ceramic breaks and is heavy. Keep the nice decorative pot in a separate box. Write down which plant stood in what kind of light: full sun, partial shade or a darker corner. In the chaos of the move you'll forget otherwise.
On moving day: packing and transport
On the day, plants should travel separately from the rest of the contents. A moving van quickly becomes a tropical oven in hot weather and a freezer in cold weather, both lethal for most houseplants. Transport plants in your own car, in a stable position. Small plants fit in boxes with newspaper filling gaps so they can't shift. Place big plants upright on the boot floor or back seat, secured with a seatbelt or leaning support. Cover the soil with a damp tea towel or plastic film so dirt doesn't fly around. For long branches: tie them loosely with soft horticultural twine or old tights, that prevents broken branches when carrying inside. Avoid plastic bags over the leaves, because the plant can't breathe and dies in two hours from heat build-up. A light paper bag around the upper foliage is safer protection. On long-distance moves or multi-day moves: keep plants in a temporary indoor space at night, not in the van or in storage. And prevent temperature swings: a tropical plant from a warm home into a cold van and back, three times in an hour, causes more damage than the transport itself.
Adjusting to the new home
On arrival assign your plants a calm spot first, not their final placement. Give them a few days in a bright space without direct sun, a kind of acclimatisation period. Inspect each plant for new damage: trim broken leaves, prune broken branches neatly back to a healthy point. Don't water in the first twenty-four to forty-eight hours unless the soil is really dry, overwatering a stressed plant often causes root rot. After a week move the plants to their intended spot, with attention to light. Light levels in a new home are almost never the same as the old, a window that faced south in the old place may face east or west in the new one, which changes what plants can survive there. Watch your plants for the first month: if a plant drops leaves, it's probably too dark or too bright. Move it to a new spot and wait another week. Resume fertilising only after three to four weeks, once the plant looks calm and shows new leaf growth. Be patient: the full adjustment of a large plant to a new environment can take two to three months.
Special cases: orchids, succulents and large tropicals
Some plants deserve extra care. Orchids are notably sensitive to shocks at the flower stems, tie a long flowering stem gently to a support stake before transport. Their roots want air; always transport them in their clear plastic inner pot, not sealed in a box without ventilation. Succulents and cacti are surprisingly patient: they survive days to weeks without water or light. For cacti the main thing is to protect yourself, wrap spiny parts in thick paper or bubble wrap before handling. Large tropicals like a metre-tall fig or monstera are a challenge due to size. Don't underestimate the weight: a big pot with wet soil can weigh tens of kilos. Ask someone to help, or use a hand cart. Hanging plants, like a hanging snake plant or string of pearls, transport best by carefully placing the entire macramé with plant in a cardboard cradle so the trailing parts hang over without snapping. For extremely rare or expensive plants, a variegated monstera albo, a philodendron gloriosum, consider a portable cooler or a temporary home with a friend with suitable light if the move can't happen in one day. Some plants are simply irreplaceable, and investing in extra care is well worth it.
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Vermaat Verhuizingen relocates private clients and businesses across the Netherlands. Our articles are written from practical knowledge of the moving trade, from narrow Amsterdam staircases to international moves. More about us →
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